By Brad Dison
In 1873, Julius Wettstein, a German cheese maker, opened a cheese factory in Monroe, New York. He named it Monroe Cheese Company. The company was so successful that Wettstein sold the company five years later for $16,000. Adjusted for inflation, that would be just over half a million dollars in today’s money. The cheese company was bought and sold twice, each time making a profit, until Adolphe Tode and a partner bought it in 1884 for $25,000. In 1888, they hired 21-year-old Swiss immigrant Emil Frey to work in the factory.
In 1889, Adolphe challenged his cheese makers to produce a popular cheese called Bismarck. Bismarck cheese imported from Europe spoiled before it reached American grocers. After two years of failed attempts on his own time, Emil developed a new spreadable cheese that was so popular that the company discontinued their efforts to create Bismarck cheese. They named Emil’s creation Liederkranz after a famous New York Singing Society. Liederkranze cheese became popular across America, but Adolphe had made enough bad business decisions that he lost everything.
In 1891, New York wholesale grocer Jacob Weisl bought the Monroe Cheese Company from the Goshen Savings Bank. Under Jacob’s leadership, the Monroe Cheese Company grew and expanded. They opened a second factory in Covington, Pennsylvania where they focused mainly on producing Swiss cheese. Sales of Swiss cheese were spectacular, but there were some issues with producing and distributing wheels of hard Swiss cheese. It often came out misshapen or was broken during the manufacturing or distribution processes. Jacob deemed the misshapen or broken cheese unsalable, but what could they do with all the “waste cheese?”
In 1916, Jacob challenged his employees to find a way to turn the “waste cheese” into a profitable product. Luckily, Emil Frey was still working for Monroe Cheese Company. In his spare time in his home kitchen, Emil mixed and measured various ingredients. After two years of trial and error, he came up with a concoction which used only three ingredients; the waste cheese, whey, which was the leftover liquid from milk curds, and an emulsifier used to blend and stabilize the product. Emil patented the process, named his new cheese, and shared his discovery with his boss. The new cheese could easily hold its shape, required no refrigeration, had a long shelf life, and turned into a silky sauce when melted.
The Monroe Cheese Company quickly put the “waste cheese” into production. Like Emil’s Liederkranze cheese, his new creation became popular in homes, hotels, and restaurants. It was so popular that on Valentine’s Day 1923, Jacob created and incorporated a new independent company to produce this one product. In 1927, Kraft Foods bought the “waste cheese” company.
Researchers at Kraft quickly began tinkering with Emil’s formula and process. Remember that Emil patented the process for making his “waste cheese.” Rather than three ingredients, the new formula had a paragraph’s worth of chemical ingredients. Kraft advertised the “waste cheese” as a health food and diet aid, though it was neither. With clever marketing campaigns, Kraft’s version of Emil’s “waste cheese” remains one of the most popular cheese products in the world. Kraft’s version still tastes and melts pretty much the same as the Emil’s “waste cheese,” and still uses the name Emil gave it because of its velvety smoothness when melted. You know Emil’s “waste cheese” as Velveeta. What you may not know is that Kraft’s version of Velveeta cheese does not contain any cheese.
Sources:
1. David Levine, “Where Does Velveeta (and Liederkranz) Cheese Come From? Monroe, NY, Of Course!” Hudson Valley Magazine, March 18, 2013, https://hvmag.com/food/where-does-velveeta-and-liederkranz-cheese-come-from-monroe-ny-of-course/.
2. David Levine, “Who Emil Frey whipped up a smooth dairy sensation,” Smithsonian, January-February 2025, p.35.
3. “The History of Cheese Making in Monroe,” Monroe Historical Society, https://www.monroehistoryny.org/cheese-in-monroe.